Starting your chicken-keeping journey is exciting, but it comes with a learning curve. Many beginners make the same mistakes—which can lead to stress, sick birds, or costly fixes down the line. Here are 12 common mistakes new chicken keepers should avoid to ensure a happy, healthy flock.
1. Rehomed Chickens: Know What You’re Taking On
Ex-commercial hens (often called rescue hens) are bred to lay as many eggs as possible in their first 72 weeks. After this, they are usually culled. These birds often come with health issues due to intensive breeding and early-life conditions.
They deserve a second chance, but keepers must be prepared for extra care and potential challenges.
2. Used Wooden Housing: A Red Mite Risk
Second-hand wooden coops can harbor red mite infestations, damp, rot, and warping. Ask the seller why they're parting with the coop—if red mites are suspected, walk away immediately. It's nearly impossible to eradicate once established. It’s wiser to invest in a durable, easy-to-clean, water-tight coop from the start. And our coops are exactly what you need!
3. Poultry Auctions: Buyer Beware
While some reputable breeders sell surplus birds at auctions, many use them to offload problem birds, often carrying diseases like Mycoplasma Gallisepticum. Always buy from friendly, helpful local breeders who offer healthy birds and aftercare advice.
4. Cock Birds: Think Before You Add a Rooster
New keepers are often persuaded to take on a cock bird (rooster)—either as part of a breeding trio or to rehome someone else's unwanted male. But you don’t need a cockerel to get eggs. Roosters can be noisy, aggressive, or cause neighbour complaints. You can always introduce one later when you're more experienced and informed.
5. Small Runs: Not Enough Space
Chickens only sleep and lay eggs inside their coop. The rest of the time, they need to be outside, stretching, scratching, and engaging in natural behaviours. A small run (especially one permanently attached to the housing) isn’t enough. Aim for at least 4 square metres per bird. The Nestera run, compatible with the Large Penthouse, acts as a useful holding area for short periods before birds are released to free range or into a larger fenced area.
6. Hay? No Way!
Don’t confuse hay with straw.
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Straw (from cereal crops) is ideal bedding.
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Hay (dried grass) is not safe: chickens often eat it, which can cause crop impaction or fatal respiratory infections like Aspergillosis due to mould spores.
Stick to straw for safe, healthy housing.
7. Chicken Wire: Not Predator-Proof
Chicken wire is not suitable for securing runs or enclosures. It might keep your birds in, but it won’t keep predators out. Instead, use galvanised or coated weld mesh, which is stronger and predator-resistant.
8. Foxes: Smart, Sneaky, and Deadly
Foxes are excellent hunters: agile climbers, skilled diggers, and mostly active at night. Protect your flock by:
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Adding a wire skirt around your run’s base
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Covering the top of your run
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Installing electric fencing or electric poultry netting, which foxes avoid
9. Nocturnal Predators: Automate Protection
Predators often strike when you forget to lock the coop at dusk. Life gets busy—and predators know it. Our automatic coop door is a smart investment and could literally save your flock.
10. Rodents: Keep Feed Under Control
Rodents are attracted to leftover feed and can quickly become a problem. Prevent infestations by:
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Only providing the day’s feed in a trough (don’t scatter!)
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Using a hopper feeder that’s removed at night
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Switching to a treadle feeder, ideally mounted above ground
This also helps smaller or lower-ranking birds get access to food.
11. Water: Keep It Fresh Daily
Large drinkers may seem convenient, but dirty water breeds bacteria quickly. A contaminated drinker can make your flock sick. Make it a daily habit to clean and refill waterers with fresh water.
12. Don’t Forget Grit!
Mixed hen grit is essential for digestion and strong eggshells. Avoid small plastic tubs—buy a large 20kg sack and offer it in a separate container. It can stay out overnight and should be topped up as needed. Birds kept in runs need grit more than free-ranging birds, who naturally access minerals.
Have questions or want to learn more? Check out our beginner’s guide to chicken keeping or get in touch with our friendly team!
